Sustainability

 MY MISSION

All of my jewellery is inspired by natural world, so it is at the core of my small independent brand to create jewellery that is in harmony with nature and human being. I strive my jewellery to be as environmentally friendly in the making process as possible. Having all my jewellery handmade by me in my Surrey studio in small made to order, limited editions or one-of-a-kind pieces helps to reduce the production and stock waste. I use traditional jewellery making techniques and work with recycled metals or Fairtrade Gold as well as conflict-free gemstone, GIA certified or lab grown diamonds. My jewellery is inspired by nature and it’s microcosm of seaweeds, meadows, corals and rocks. With so much love and appreciation for nature and our planet I feel responsible to be as as sustainable as I can when making my jewellery for you. All of my packing is made using recycled materials or handpicked vintage jewellery boxes and trinkets.

I am dedicated to keeping toxic chemicals off of our bodies, out of our water-ways, soil, ecosystems, and communities, by not using harsh chemicals in the making and choosing alternative organic products like pickle juice instead of store-bought pickle (typically sodium bisulfate or sulphuric-acid based). As well as using borax for soldering rather than flux.

My mission is to creating timeless heirloom jewellery using highest quality materials to be loved and treasured for generations to come. I stand for saving up and buying something truly special that will last you a lifetime rather than going to the landfill the next season.

Design Process

My jewellery journey always begins with an idea, inspiration and research. Browsing and gathering all kind of treasures from nature – whether it’s beach combing for seashells and pebbles or picking up interesting colour and shapes lichen from forest. Taking close up photograaphs and then moving on to drawing and designing in a sketchbook. However, my designs only truly comes to life at the bench where I feel most natural and creative. Taking the time and skill to sculpt my designs into wax is what allows me to achieve my signature microcosmos details and textures into each one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery.

Making Process

All of my designs are wax carved by hand using ancient jewellery making technique of lost wax casting as well as self developed wax carving techniques.

Once carved from wax, then all of my jewellery is cast in precious metal by skilful and experienced craftsmen in North London. After casting all of the pieces come back to me and then I finish them all by hand. I use a lot of manual hand tools as well as small range power tools. I am committed not to waste any materials during the production and collect the smallest metal dusts to be reused in future jewels.

Metal

At the moment I only work with recycled 18ct, 14ct or 9ct gold in yellow, rose and white colours. Alternatively I offer Faitrade Gold option for my clients.

It is difficult to say whether recycled or Fairtrade Gold is environmentally friendlier. With recycled metals no new mining takes place, but this does not mean that the gold mining will stop, it’s just too valuable as a currency. Most gold that is mined today is not used in the jewellery industry. Fairtrade Gold comes from small and artisanal mines and is ethical, socially responsible and pays fair wages, however it still needs to be mined and potentially destroying landscapes. That’s why I let my customers decide for themselves, which of these sources aligns best with their values.

What is Recycled Gold?

All of my ready to be shipped jewellery is made of recycled gold. Jewellery made of recycled gold looks exactly the same as made from newly mined gold and Fairtrade gold.

But what is exactly recycled metal and is using it going to change much environmentally?

Gold is one of the most valuable materials in the world to have been consistently recycled since its discovery. It has always played an important role in the international monetary system and is accepted globally. So in short gold is not mined for jewellery and unfortunately using recycled gold in the jewellery industry will not curb its mining, it’s simply too valuable as a currency. However, using recycled gold in jewellery making is still environmentally better than using newly mined gold from large mines.

What is Fairtrade Gold?

Fairtrade Gold is the world’s first independent ethical certification system for gold.

Fairtrade Gold is sourced exclusively from mines which meet the Fairtrade Gold Standard; an internationally recognized marker of best-practice. The Fairtrade Gold Standard includes strict requirements on working conditions, health and safety, handling chemicals, women’s rights, child labour and protection of the environment including water sources and forests.

I offer the option of Fairtrade gold and encourage my clients whenever possible to choose to use it for their special piece of jewellery. This does incur a very modest additional charge over recycled metal, which I do not profit from but is instead passed on to help improve practices at Fairtrade mines. To ensure the traceability of the Fairtrade gold I use, each piece is marked with the Fairtrade Gold Stamp at the Assay Office.

Fairtrade gold option is available on a commission, please contact me if you would like any of my work to be made in Fairtrade gold.

Stones

I use variety of different stones, starting from semi-precious naturally coloured tourmalines, garnets, moonstones to precious sapphires, emeralds and various colour diamonds. My stone setting is all done in famous London Hatton Garden, by experienced and very skilled craftsmen.

Sapphires and other gemstones

I have long standing relationships with a number of sapphire suppliers whom I trust to uphold the highest standards of quality and sustainability. I only use natural and not heat-treated sapphires exclusively.

Frustratingly, it is really hard to know the exact source and origin of many of my stones bought in the trade shows or during my travels. However, I am working hard with our suppliers to retrieve this information.

Diamonds

I love using antique and repurposed diamonds whenever possible for engagement rings and any other bespoke jewellery. If you have a family gemstone you would like to use, I’d love to help you to re-set it in one of my designs! I can also source more traditional diamonds on request, and I am happy to provide GIA certificates or Kimberley Process certificate for any diamond purchased through me to be used in a custom ring.

I also offer ethical alternatives to traditionally mined diamonds such as lab-grown diamonds.

lab-grown (or cultured) diamonds are chemically, optically and physically identical to those occurring naturally and even the world’s most masterful gemologist could not tell the two apart, they are created using cutting-edge technology. They are just as durable as mined diamond and are graded and certified using the same process as mined diamonds. But it’s better because eco-systems and landscapes are not destroyed by mining.

Tools and Studio Equipment

To make jewellery I use a lot of manual hand tools such as piercing saw, files, hammers, anvils, sand paper to name a few.

I also do a lot of in house soldering, for which I use propane gas with fume extractor.

For polishing, drilling and finishing up piece of jewellery I use electricity that comes from a green energy provider.

Chemicals

I am dedicated to keeping toxic chemicals off of our bodies, out of our water-ways, soil, ecosystems, and communities, by not using harsh chemicals in the making and choosing alternative organic products like pickle juice instead of store-bought pickle (typically sodium bisulfate or sulphuric-acid based). As well as using borax for soldering rather than flux.

Packaging

I only use packaging which can be reused or recycled and only aim to keep wrapping to a minimum without producing too many throw away items. Items such as purchase receipts, warranty and catalogs are provided electronically to save paper and chemicals used in the printing ink. All paper used in the studio is FSC certified.

All my postal and branded boxes are made from recycled materials and no acid dye free tissue paper. Insert to protect your jewellery in the shipping is made of natural felt wool from responsible farms. I use only paper tape with natural rubber adhesive.

All customers before ordering can choose if they prefer brand new paper box for their jewellery or hand picked vintage trinket made of mother-of-pearl. Please note if you choose a mother-of-pearl trinket box it will be chosen by me in as good vintage quality as possible.

I hope that like my jewellery, you will keep my gift boxes for years to come!

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Dovile Bertulyte

Unique handcrafted jewellery

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Dovile Bertulyte

Unique handcrafted jewellery